Showing posts sorted by relevance for query kamatis. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query kamatis. Sort by date Show all posts

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Native Kamatis


"Native" means it is endemic, or is traditionlly rooted to a specific place. It is what is used to refer to this kind of tomatoes, to differentiate it from the common Filipino tomato, which is round, yellow-reddish, thick-skinned and acidic.

Probably the more correct term is heirloom, but in the countryside native is understood well enough, while heirloom would be Greek, its pronunciation subject to a lot of interpretation from North to South (let me see, irlum, erloam, hherlom...).

This heirloom tomato is more bulbous, some segmented, the cross-section of which results in a beatiful star, or flower, is pinkish without any yellow or red or even orange shading, skin as thin as an onion's, and sweet without any hint of acidity.

Its native designation nonetheless, it is not commonly found anywhere in any market or town. It is highly seasonal, appearing during summer in Pangasinan, and only for such a short period.

Though it is sold for the same price as the common tomato, Pangasinenses value the native kamatis more. Since it is thin-skinned, it is not cooked, but just sliced and eaten fresh, with rock salt, bagoong or agamang. Which is just the perfect accompaniment to anything grilled. As it can be had only during summer, it is the side of choice during frequent summer outings - to the beach, or picnics under mango trees.


I love native tomatoes with salted fermented krill, best made in Lingayen, and it featured in many a summer evening meal as I was growing up. Sultriness meant lazy days, and summer dinners usually called for fried tinapa (smoked scad), eaten with rice and sliced native tomatoes seasoned with agamang.

My childhood was defined by souped rice - rice inundated with soup made from vegetables, the vegetables usually mashed up and mixed in. During summers of tinapa and tomatoes, my mother didn't bother to make soup, but she improvised by letting the tomato juices leach from the saltiness of the agamang. The juice became my soup. Sometimes, actually most of the time, my mother poured a bit of water onto the tomatoes, and the resulting juice-water mix was then poured onto my rice.


I don't think that was just my mother's caprice, since sometimes I see my husband pouring water onto our tomato-agamang salad, too, then proceeding to spoon the "juice" onto his rice.

More than the sentimental value, the tomato-agamang mix, with soup, is a prized side to fried and grilled fish that makes my mouth water. The freshness and sweetness of the tomatoes is countered very nicely by the meatiness and saltiness of the minute shrimps. Such that I cannot live without agamang. And heirloom tomatoes.




Bahay Kubo

Bahay kubo, kahit munti
Ang halaman doon ay sari-sari
Singkamas at talong, sigarillas at mani
Sitaw, bataw, patani


Gundol, patola, upo’t kalabasa
At saka meron pa, labanos, mustasa
Sibuyas, kamatis, bawang at luya
Sa paligid-ligid ay puno ng linga



roughly translated as:

Bahay Kubo
Filipino folk song

Nipa hut, even though small
the plants surrounding it are varied and many
turnips and eggplants, winged beans and peanuts
yard-long beans, hyacinth beans, lima beans

wax gourd, sponge gourd, bottle gourd, squash
and there’s more, radish, mustard
onions, tomatoes, garlic, ginger
and all around are trees of sesame



Related Post
Sauteed Tomatoes

Friday, April 23, 2010

Beach-Bumming


I am a beach bum. I grew up to be one. My kids are growing up to be beach bums. Pangasinenses are raised to become beach-bums.

Gifted with an extensive coastline that wraps the northern, northwestern and western portions of the province, Pangasinan is beach country. So Pangasinenses' all-time favorite pastime is going to the beach. Entire barangays, school classes, clans, barkadas arrive at the beaches by the truckload, or by the busload or jeepload, or trikeload, or even by a kuliglig, to spend the day immersed in the salty waters.

It is the coolest thing to do in Pangasinan, literally and figuratively speaking, even for teenagers. Even for those on a date. I’ve even spent nights at the beach with some of my high school and college barkada, singing to the strums on a guitar by a bonfire, sometimes spending the night at the many nipa cottages lining the shores of Lingayen Gulf.

Beach-bumming is a beloved local activity that's done year-round, whatever the season. Because the beaches are mostly defined by the Lingayen Gulf, waters are calm and generally warm even during the cold season. Even in stormy weather, which Pangasinan gets a lot of and usually in an elevated level of fierceness because the region is normally the exit point for tropical storms, it is not uncommon for people to be hitting the beach.

Storms, and full moons, actually provide more excitement and variety, what with higher and more forceful waves to crash into and a stronger undertow that doubles the fun.

Not everybody who goes to the beach likes being brined, though. Those who mind a suntan, lounging in the nipa cottages to drink and sing karaoke, and of course to breathe in the sea breeze and relax, is a worthwhile way to spend the day.

Spending an entire day at the beach involves several meals. As anyone who has battled waves could attest – beach-bumming is as sure to induce hunger as a two-hour run. So any trip to the beach involves food. Lots of it.

It is common practice among beach-bummers to bring baon – packed meals cooked at dawn – to the beach. Nothing too fancy or it might spoil – usually pancit (sautéed stick noodles), adobo (meats stewed in vinegar and soy sauce), and prepared barbecues ready for grilling.

Sometimes, if the markets along the way have good seafood early in the morning, fresh fish, squid, shrimps would be purchased for grilling at the beach. But even if food planning is haphazard, nobody at the beach goes hungry, as ambulant seafood vendors make rounds carrying crabs and shrimps and squid and pinindar a bangus (butterflied and sun-dried milkfish), while charcoal for grilling is sold everywhere.


Those who rent out the beach cottages at the beaches in Bonuan and San Fabian, where we frequently go to beach-bum, can grill Bonuan bangus perfectly (scales charred but the flesh, and especially the fat, still moist) for a fee. This is served accompanied by the default dipping sauce of inasin, commonly known elsewhere as bagoong isda, squeezed with kalamansi juice and spiked with sili (chile peppers) left whole for the diner to mash according to his heat preference.

Inkalot a bangus is eaten with rice and kamatis tan agamang (fresh tomatoes, preferably native, and salted fermented krill or bagoong alamang), and likely with freshly gathered ar-arosip (sea grapes) on the side. It is also good with beer, particularly with thinly pared green mangoes dipped lightly in the same dipping sauce, or gin, even brandy or rum.

However one likes it, it is a very economical way to get high on something that is abundant in the province. That's why it is much loved. Like the beaches. And beach-bumming.

Bangus Festival ongoing til May 1

Related Posts
Inkalot a Bangos
Native Kamatis
Silverio's Restaurant

Friday, February 22, 2008

Baktaw

Common names (Philippine languages)
baglau/bataw/bulay (Bisaya)
batau/bataw (Bikol)
bataw/sibachi/sibatsi (Tagalog)
itab (Ifugao, Bontoc)
parda, parda-atap (Ilokano)
baktaw (Pangasinan)


Scientific name Dolichos labiab Linn.

Baktaw has been in season since late last year, along with other vegetable pods. The young pods are mixed in with other vegetables that are usually sinagsagan, or boiled with bagoong (salted fish paste), in Pangasinan.

It looks like snow peas or Chinese peas in shape, size, and thinness, but the pod skin is rough, the color lighter green. One variant has characteristic violet shading along the edges.

It is not a prized vegetable, and it is neither cultivated for commercial purposes. The plant usually sprouts on its own when its season arrives, usually during the colder months of the year, after the rains. The pods are plucked and sold in the markets as an alternative, or additional, ingredient to any cooked vegetable mixture.

When cooking, the edges are trimmed and the pods split lengthwise. Traditionally, it is added to pakbet, or any mixture of vegetables distinguished as Ilocano/Pangasinan (sitaw, patani, sigarillas, kamansi, papaya, et.al.). I find this too gloomy, though, or too green, too homogenous. Not too exciting.

So I add it to squash, probably mixed with cabuey (sigarillas/winged beans) if available, and squash' interminable companion agayep (sitaw/string beans or yard-long beans), and some chopped tomatoes. The squash brightens up the vegetable dish, in visual terms as well as in taste.


I am not particularly enamored with baktaw, either - I buy and eat it because it is....there, if you know what I mean, and because eating what's in season is in line with my food philosophy. It doesn't have any distinguishing taste, nor scent, and it is not really missed if it's not in season.

But blogging about food has led me to discover many things. I've learned, for example, that baktaw contains significant amounts of calcium, iron, vitamin C, and other minerals.

More importantly, a team of researchers from the Central Luzon State University, led by Lilia D. Torres, learned more benefits from baktaw, along with other native vegetables, in a study entitled “Investigation of selected agricultural products and wastes in Region III as sources of natural products and pulp,” published at the DOST website. And I quote:

....Extracts from the seeds of bataw contain saponins and alkaloids with anti-tumor agent.

Alkaloids have strong anti-bacterial and anti-cancer biological activity and are widely used as component of drug and herbal formulations.Saponins are surface-active agents producing foamy suds when mixed with water. These are used as ingredients for cosmetics, detergents, shampoos, emulsifiers, and fire extinguishers.

Saponins exhibit hemolytic properties, which act as poison, show cytotoxic or pesticidal activity, and have a variety of medicinal applications. They can inhibit growth of cancer cells, lower cholesterol, boost immune system and energy, act as natural antibiotic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-oxidant....(emphases mine)
So now there's more reason to buy baktaw.


Related Post
Baktaw Flowers


Bahay Kubo

Bahay kubo, kahit munti
Ang halaman doon ay sari-sari
Singkamas at talong, sigarillas at mani
Sitaw, bataw
, patani
Gundol, patola, upo’t kalabasa
At saka meron pa, labanos, mustasa
Sibuyas
, kamatis, bawang at luya
Sa paligid-ligid ay puno ng linga

Roughly translated as:
Bahay KuboFilipino folk song
Nipa hut, even though small
the plants surrounding it are varied and many
turnips and eggplants, winged beans and peanuts
yard-long beans, hyacinth beans, lima beans
wax gourd, sponge gourd, bottle gourd, squash
and there’s more, radish, mustard
onions, tomatoes, garlic and ginger
the surrounding spaces filled with sesame

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Lugadang Dilis


Lugada is an authentic Caviteno dish that involves sauteeing seafood with greens. It's usually a showcase dish for sting ray, but I learned recently that it is also good with dilis, or anchovies.

And because I had access to fresh dilis, and because I didn't know how to clean and cook sting rays (though I don't lack instruction - vendors at the market assure me they would clean and chop the ray so it's ready for cooking), I took the opportunity to make lugadang dilis.

Lugada rhymes with regada, the water festival celebrated around the Feast of St. John in Cavite City. So it was even more appropriate that we had lugada.


Lugadang dilis, more or less, is sauteeing in a little oil crushed garlic, sliced onions, ginger and tomatoes, then putting in the washed and cleaned fresh anchovies and a little miso after everything has wilted. Then mix sliced mustard greens and native pechay, which will leach out water that would cook all the ingredients.

That's basically it, but a fishmonger's version includes diced salted duck eggs (itlog na maalat)and fresh Cavite carabao's milk cheese (kasilyo), so I included them as well.

It's important to behead the dilis to be able to conveniently enjoy this dish. I actually had qualms about cooking dilis this way because of the tinik - a bane for mothers. But as long as the anchovies are beheaded and the main spines pulled out, this dish is spot on. The process could be cumbersome, but fresh anchovies can be bought already cleaned at the Cavite wet market.

What defines this dish is the mustasa. Ordinarily, mustard greens can be very peppery for comfort - the bite is overpowering for children and even for adults. But mixed with pechay, the bite is diluted and is reduced to an accent, but still very much present. With the umami aspect of anchovies and the salty-creamy notes of the egg and the cheese, this is a multi-dimensional, sophisticated dish inspite of the ordinary and common ingredients.


Mustasa is also made into buro in Cavite, preserved in brine. This tempers the peppery trait of the vegetable, and is eaten as a side, perhaps with the function of a pickle. It is washed before cooking, and is also sauteed sliced with garlic, ginger, and tomatoes.


Related Posts
Isdang Cavite
Isdang Cavite: Puti at De Kolor
Bibingkoy
Alakaak
Kasilyo




Bahay Kubo

Bahay kubo, kahit munti
Ang halaman doon ay sari-sari
Singkamas at talong, sigarillas at mani
Sitaw, bataw, patani

Kundol, patola, upo’t kalabasa
At saka meron pa, labanos, mustasa
Sibuyas, kamatis, bawang at luya
Sa paligid-ligid ay puno ng linga



Roughly translated as:

Bahay Kubo
(Filipino folk song)

Nipa hut, even though small
the plants surrounding it are varied and many
turnips and eggplants, winged beans and peanuts
yard-long beans, hyacinth beans, lima beans

wax gourd, sponge gourd, bottle gourd, squash
and there’s more, radish, mustard
onions, tomatoes, garlic and ginger
the surrounding spaces filled with sesame




Tuesday, February 09, 2010

Gundol/Kundol


It used to be, before pastries and cakes and ice cream concoctions and cold salads of canned fruit, that candied gundol* was one of two (the other is, by default, leche flan) featured desserts in any festive occasion. And I mean really festive - grand celebrations like Catholic baptisms and fiestas. And probably even weddings.

These occasions, in those more serene times not so long ago, were a field demonstration of home-cooking and bayanihan. And bayanihan - the time-honored practice of helping out your neighbor in preparing for a big event - is needed during feasts, because everything laid on the table, from the appetizers and soups to the salads and mains (actually, it's more of a smorgasboard of main dishes, mostly meat) up to the desserts and drinks, everything is cooked/made right there at home, where the feast was usually held, anyway.

And not just cooked, but the animals to be served were also slaughtered, cleaned and dressed and chopped to the appropriate cuts right there in the premises. Big wood fires were built, around which big, somewhat flat rocks were arranged, so kawas and kalderos (huge cooking pots and pans) could be put atop the fires for the occasion.

Homecooking was practical because occasions such as those mentioned above were usually a barangay (roughly the equivalent of a village) event. Just as everybody volunteers for the preparation, everybody likewise comes for the occasion, no invitation needed. As such, the slaughter of an animal to use all its parts, and the use of home-grown ingredients, including the fruits and vegetables, were economical.


So with the use of gundol, which grows abundantly. I associate gundol with fiestas because that is when it was usually served. But this is actually because our town fiesta is in January, when gundol - known outside the country as winter melon or wax gourd (Benincasa hispida) - is in profusion. The last and first quarters of the year are also choice times for binyag and kasal, and I have attended my fair share of those (what Filipino hasn't?) that's why gundol is festive food, for me.


Gundol is a pulpy, oblong gourd with waxy skin. It is similar to upo (bottle gourd), with as many seeds in the center, but the flesh is drier. It is eaten as a vegetable, again same as the upo, usually added in soups. But when I was growing up we never had it as a vegetable.


Gundol is always a candy for me. The thin waxy coating on the gourd acts to protect the fresh fruit, so it can be stored for a length of time. Candying it goes further in preserving it. Because it does not need chilling, it is ideal for serving in big occasions, when the ref is normally bursting at the seams and about 30% of the food usually spoils before the event. Its long shelf life is a guarantee that it can be made ahead.

Having said that, I'll add that it can be had anytime of the year, and there's no need for an invitation to a grand feast or wedding, or even a contemplation of gate-crashing a binyag, because it is sold year-round in the public markets around the province, at the puto kiosks in Calasiao, and in Romana's.


But in case you come across a fresh gourd, it's easy to candy a gundol. A vine sprouts at the backyard of my in-laws, and I happened upon a couple of fruits at the Malasiqui market one time, so I've had practice. Just slice open the fruit, scoop out the seeds, then cut the flesh into long, fat wedges. Drain these, then sun-dry.


not dry enough, and the slices were too French-fry-thin
- they should be in thick wedges

Three days of sun-drying in the cold, Habagat-fanned holiday season yielded a still moist gundol for me, but I guess about three days in the summer sun is enough. Spread the wedges on a single layer so they dry properly.

When dry enough, mix in white sugar and put on a thick-bottomed pan to cook, stirring constantly. The gundol will moisten, but will harden again when thoroughly cooked. Store in an air-tight container at room temperature, but I like eating candied gundol cold, so I usually store them in the freezer.


Commecially produced gundol candy are usually harder and whiter than home-cooked ones because of the addition of lime (dena in Pangasinan - the mineral calcium oxide, not the acidic fruit). Gundol is made to steep in a lime mixture overnight, which dehydrates and bleaches the fruit. Which is a good enough reason to make the candies at home.

___________________________________________


*The terms gundol and kundol are used interchangeably, and understandably because of the guttural similarities of the two initial letters, but kundol is more a Tagalog term and gundol is used more in Pangasinan.


Bahay Kubo

Bahay kubo, kahit munti
Ang halaman doon ay sari-sari
Singkamas at talong, sigarillas at mani
Sitaw, bataw, patani


Kundol, patola, upo’t kalabasa
At saka meron pa, labanos, mustasa
Sibuyas, kamatis, bawang at luya
Sa paligid-ligid ay puno ng linga



Roughly translated as:

Bahay Kubo
(Filipino folk song)

Nipa hut, even though small
the plants surrounding it are varied and many
turnips and eggplants, winged beans and peanuts
yard-long beans, hyacinth beans, lima beans

wax gourd, sponge gourd, bottle gourd, squash
and there’s more, radish, mustard
onions, tomatoes, garlic and ginger
the surrounding spaces filled with sesame

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Luyang Dilaw


background - turmeric rhizomes, foreground - cross-section, in powdered form

This is the ginger I am just starting to get to know well, for I only knew one kind of ginger until about a couple of years ago. I have heard about luyang dilaw in college, when I started making friends with people from all over the country, but did not actually came face to face with it until the family moved to Cavite.

Of course I have been eating it in a blend in the form of powdered curry since I was small, but not as a main ingredient on its own. There is no name in Pangasinan that I am aware of, since it is not prevalently used in the province.

It is more commonly known as dilaw (the Tagalog term for the color yellow) because it turns everything it gets into contact with an attractive lemony yellow. Known in other Filipino languages as kalabaga (Bisaya) and kulyaw (Ilokano), and turmeric the world over, or at least in those places where English is spoken. In other languages its name is the equivalent term for the color yellow.

As the common ginger (Zingiber officinale) is the ginger I know and prevalently use, it is the standard to which I compare other ginger I meet, or did not meet early on in my life. So relatively speaking, luyang dilaw is more peppery than gingery. More earthy. The fresh rhizome smells like wet socks, or wet dog fur at the extreme.


up top, common ginger, bottom, luyang dilaw

It looks exactly like a ginger rhizome, with branching nodes and pale, thin skin, the thick flesh compact. But it looks emaciated when placed beside the common ginger and another variety, galangal. It looks like a pinkie, the cylindrical form more defined, while the latter two are much more thicker than a thumb with a more flattened out shape.

Beneath the thin, pale skin of the turmeric a glimmer of orange shines through. Peeled, the flesh is more porous and not as fibrous, more akin to carrots than ginger. It is a brighter orange than a carrot, though.

I sometimes buy kilos in Cavite to bring home to the elders in Pangasinan as organic pasalubong. It is very much appreciated, because of its anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant, and subsequently anti-carcinogenic, properties, as well as its lowering effect on cholesterol levels.

A poultice of the rhizome also purportedly heals skin eczemas and dermatitis. It is boiled and made into tea to ingest its heath benefits, and for its believed potency in expelling intestinal worms.

So far I have been rubbing and marinating roasted chicken and chicken steamed on a bed of salt with pounded pulps of turmeric, mainly for the nice color it imparts, and not for the flavor. The flavor is too subtle to make a difference, anyway, in such dishes.

I try mixing it with our daily kalamansi juice , which gives it a rather unnatural deep yellow color, like we were drinking powdered mango or dalandan juice. And in arroz caldo, with unfavorable outcome.

But I have eaten a nice, aromatic dish of marine catfish steamed in turmeric and lemongrass (alimusan sa dilaw) at an eatery in Iloilo, and bringhe, a delicacy in Pampanga where glutinous rice is seasoned with turmeric, coconut milk, meats and seafood, and wrapped in banana leaves.

Friends from Bulacan tell me luyang dilaw is used in paksiw na isda (fish stewed in vinegar), and there is a festival celebrating the plant (annually in May 2, in Marilao). In Cavite it is used in adobo, where the adobo is stewing meats only in vinegar.

I hope to encounter more Filipino dishes using this spice, so I could incorporate it more in my cooking. Though I’m sure I’ll find it as an ingredient in many cuisines, as it is used extensively the world over. Perhaps I’ll try my hand at drying some rhizomes to pound into powder, especially now that turmeric is in season. Maybe I could even come up with my own curry blend.



Bahay Kubo

Bahay kubo, kahit munti
Ang halaman doon ay sari-sari
Singkamas at talong, sigarillas at mani
Sitaw, bataw, patani


Gundol, patola, upo’t kalabasa
At saka meron pa, labanos, mustasa
Sibuyas, kamatis, bawang at luya
Sa paligid-ligid ay puno ng linga



Roughly translated as:

Bahay Kubo
Filipino folk song

Nipa hut, even though small
the plants surrounding it are varied and many
turnips and eggplants, winged beans and peanuts
yard-long beans, hyacinth beans, lima beans

wax gourd, sponge gourd, bottle gourd, squash
and then there are more, radish, mustard
onions, tomatoes, garlic and ginger
the surrounding spaces filled with sesame


Related Posts
Adobong Malabanos sa Luyang Dilaw
Arroz Caldo sa Luyang Dilaw
Pinaupong Manok sa Asin
Dinilawang Atsara
Dinilawang Alimusan
Turmeric Bloom
Robinson's Tamales
SauceMate

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Black Summer

"goma" sundae

The proliferation of Korean and Japanese restaurants and food outlets in metropolitan cities is affording us a glimpse into the food culture of our Asian neighbors. One that I couldn't fail to notice - much because it is not common in the Philippines - is the use of black sesame. 

I only know of one Filipino dish that uses linga, and that is palitaw, boiled sticky discs of ground glutinous rice flour eaten sprinkled with grated coconut meat, sugar and white or toasted sesame seeds.  But the use of linga is not an absolute - not all the palitaw I've eaten around the country boasts of sesame seed topping. 

In Pangasinan, for example, we don't use it, but there is a variant made by my in-laws that submerges the dough discs in a viscous sauce aromatic with toasted linga and does away with the dry toppings, called masikoy. But the sesame seeds used are white, toasted in a hot pan to bring out the nuttiness and for color. For a while I thought all sesame seeds were white, and the brown and black ones were only according to toasting preferences.

I'm curious, though, because the children's folk song Bahay Kubo speaks of sesame plants flourishing all around a countryside backyard, and yet indigenous Filipino cuisine doesn't seem to have much use for it. Of course now sesame is in much use, the seeds as topping for burger buns, and as coating for buchi. I liberally use sesame seed oil as flavoring for noodles and vegetables. And in Asian restaurants we have battered fried meats and stews sprinkled with sesame seeds. But all these are rooted in cuisines outside our country.   

black sesame milk tea

This summer was explosive with black sesame seeds. The nuttiness was ground and made into a tar-like  paste to top the goma sundae at Pepper Lunch, while a sprinkling of white sesame seeds ensured that the flavor is unescapable. It is heavenly, akin to eating cold, melting palitaw that does not sink as a rock in the gut. 

I don't like Serenitea milk teas that much, but the selection is so varied that I go there intermittently to taste-test. The  black sesame milk tea caught my eye, and tongue. With a choice of roasted tea or assam as the base tea, it can be had hot or cold. I prefer the cold version, of course, in this heat. The black sesame is not even a flavored syrup, but real seeds that have been ground to a coarse powder so the drink comes out gritty. It is similar to the goma sundae, in melted form, and drinking it is like drinking a liquid palitaw.
Outlets of the Korean bakery Tous Le Jours sprouted like mushrooms all over the metropolis, enlightening Pinoys to French goodies with a Korean/Asian touch. It is like a trendier, and more expensive, version of pioneer Bread Talk, without the floss. 
Several pastries sport black sesame seeds atop, like a crown of sparse cropped hair, but remarkable is one of their bestsellers, sweet black rice bread with black sesame cream cheese. An immaculate bun gets an ebony spray, and cradles inside a generous filling of cream cheese pocked with the seeds that shatter with crunch and nuttiness with every bite. 
It's like palitaw and siopao and cheesecake all in one. 
At katsu Japanese specialty restaurant Yabu the condiment tray adorning every table invites diners to season  and spice the otherwise insipid battered fried meats and seafood. But served with the entrees is a small bowl with notched interiors for grinding the spoonful of keyboard-hued sesame seeds. Grind to preference, then ladle in the gooey, dark-brown dipping sauce that's reminiscent of worcestershire and teriyaki. 

The sesame salad dressing with black sesame seeds peeking out is slurpable, and is excellent both with the katsu and the unlimited shredded cabbage. I've found a similar salad dressing at the supermarket under the Kewpie brand, and it is just as good, and maybe even better, since I can have it at home to douse on whatever I fancy. 
Among all the sweets mentioned in this post, the Mochi Sweets' black sesame mochi is the closest in taste and texture to palitaw. For of course both are made with ground rice dough so they have the sticky, chewy feel. But least of all is the black sesame taste tasted here, for it seems the filling is extended with black beans or dyed sweet potato. Which is unfair, considering the price of this small treat.

Related Posts





Bahay Kubo

Bahay kubo, kahit munti
Ang halaman doon ay sari-sari
Singkamas at talong, sigarillas at mani
Sitaw, batawpatani

Kundol, patola, upo’t kalabasa
At saka meron pa, labanos, mustasa
Sibuyaskamatis, bawang at luya
Sa paligid-ligid ay puno ng linga



Roughly translated as:

Bahay Kubo
(Filipino folk song)

Nipa hut, even though small
the plants surrounding it are varied and many
turnips and eggplants, winged beans and peanuts
yard-long beans, hyacinth beans, lima beans

wax gourd, sponge gourd, bottle gourd, squash
and there’s more, radish, mustard
onions, tomatoes, garlic and ginger
the surrounding spaces filled with sesame



Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Imbote

gourmet tuyo
Tuyo and tinapa are usual breakfast staples in the Philippines. They are eaten with insanglil, sinangag or rice left-over from the night before which is stir-fried and topped with crunchy-fried minced garlic, sunny side-up eggs, and preferably achara, or sliced tomatoes with mashed itlog na pula (salted duck eggs).

Yes, we eat rice all day long, starting with breakfast, and full breakfast it always is. There may even be steamed kamote tops that had just been gathered from the front garden, with a kalamansi-bagoong dip.

Tuyo and tinapa are processed surplus fish. Tuyo is sun-dried fish, salted so it keeps for a long time in spite of the humid air. It is food that graces the table during stormy days and nights, too, when fishermen cannot go out to the sea so no fresh fish is available in the markets.

Tinapa is smoked fish, available only in the afternoons because the smoking process is done in the morning after the fishermen come in from the sea. It is normal for Filipino families to sometimes have tinapa for dinner, because it is the only fish for sale in the market before twilight. Tinapa doesn’t keep, and it is best eaten for breakfast the following morning.

But we are now in the age of food available year-round, and can be stocked year-round. So why not have tuyo and tinapa in bottles? Filipino entrepreneurs capitalized on these Pinoy almusal favorites, and came up with bottled tuyo fillets and tinapa flakes. Bottled tuyo fillets can last up to three years unopened, while the tinapa flakes last about a year and a half. Once opened, though, they need to be refrigerated.

These are fairly new products, and they don’t regularly appear on grocery shelves. But they have been created so exceptionally that I seek them out, giving them as presents to friends and family. I like to stock them in my pantry, too, even though I try to avoid processed food as much as possible, because they can be fine additions to  pastas, salads and spreads. And, not surprisingly, my kids love them for breakfast, as well.

Montano, famous for bottled Spanish-style sardines from Dipolog City in northwestern Mindanao, now produces bottled tuyo fillets in oil. It is its premium product, at double the price of the sardines bottle, and very rarely available. But it is worth looking for – spiced salted herring fillets in olive oil pack the bottle, ready for steamed or fried rice any time of the day. It also enlivens puttanesca and pesto sauces for pasta.



I discovered Amanda’s bottled tinapa flakes (labeled as "Smoked Fish Flakes") in bazaars. It is an OTOP product from Bataan, which itself is famous for tinapa and other fresh seafood. Flakes of deboned smoked galunggong - the fish commonly used for tinapa - are steeped in corn oil with peppercorns, pickled cucumbers and carrots, and pieces of bayleaf.

Processed smooth with sour cream, chives and a squeeze of lemon, tinapa spread is exceptionally good on toasts. Of course it is excellent for breakfast, too, with rice or in pan de sal with scrambled eggs. It is great as well incorporated in other dishes where its smoky flavor is indispensable – in misua, palabok, ginataang gulay.

So when it becomes tedious to go to the market in the afternoons for tinapa, or the rains prohibits smoking and sun-drying of tuyo, it is alright to open a bottle. Filipinos abroad do not need to worry about neighbors sensitive to the smell of frying tuyo and tinapa. These are real Pinoy products made by Pinoys, and they taste like a real Pinoy almusal


The tinapa flakes are especially notable in tinapa triangles - crispy dumplings like lumpiang shanghai but triangular and flat - with a filling of the tinapa flakes, chopped spinach and kintsay (wansoy or cilantro/coriander).


Deep-fried until crunchy and served with a chives-sour cream dip, with tomato salsa on the side (or the Ilokano KBL salad of kamatis, bagoong, lasuna), it is a festive almusal fare, but still very much Pinoy.


Montano Gourmet Spiced Tuyo
Montano Foods Corporation
Turno, Dipolog City
(63-65) 2122737
Amanda's Smoked Fish Flakes
Amanda's Marine Products
Balanga, Bataan
(63-47) 2371154, 2373050


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Monday, January 07, 2013

Ampalaya Salad


When it is cold and wet I crave for something salty. And because it's been raining every afternoon since Christmas, compounding the cold evenings, I remembered the tuyo - salted sun-dried fish - in the ref, and resolved to have it for breakfast. 

We ate the fried salty fish with ampalaya salad. Raw ampalaya, halved lengthwise and deseeded, the inner white pith scraped away, then sliced thinly. Mixed with rock salt for a few minutes, then squeezed to remove the bitter juices. 

The ampalaya is then put in a bowl of sliced native kamatis and doused with cane vinegar. The entire thing perfectly balanced the saltiness of the tuyo. It goaded one to eat a lot of rice, too, to drown the saltiness and bitterness.


It is ampalaya season in Pangasinan now. Kaing upon kaing are offloaded in market sidewalks, and sold for just Php20 a kilo. That's three to four long pieces, or five medium-sized ones, which is more than enough to last a family for a week.


Ampalaya is a regular feature of our diet, from when I was still a child, because of its health benefits and my family's predisposition to diabetes. So eating ampalaya was but a natural inclination for me, although I think that's true for a lot of Pangasinense children, at least in my time. 

The region's cuisine has bitterness as a prominent accent, be it from vegetables or meats. So that I know that the author of the children's folk song bahay kubo is not from Region I. In fact, what is known as the Ilokano parya - the 2-3-inch dark green ones with peaked ridges very close together - is reputed to be the bitterest of their kind - ampai-pait. Conversely, the "albino" ones, with shallow ridges, are supposed to be not bitter at all.  



I can't speak for the younger generation these days, but since my kids eat what we have on the table, they have grown to tolerate ampalaya. My older daughter, who never ceases to amaze me when it comes to food, even likes it. We have it sauteed with tomatoes then folded in beaten eggs. Or with crab meat. We mix it with balatong or monggo, also sauteed with tomatoes and fortified with malunggay leaves. 

They say an ampalaya's bitterness depends on the cook. Aga makaluto, kwan da. Although I think it's just a matter of technique, like employing the mentioned salting prior to cooking. But for me, who has SM tendencies, where's the fun in eating something bitter when it isn't bitter at all? 

But cooking prowess aside, it is said that an ampalaya is best eaten raw. Raw and just sliced, not immersed in salt with the juices squeezed out. It is in the bitter juices where the almost miraculous powers are. Heals and empowers the pancreas and the liver. It is also an accepted folk remedy in my province for hypertension. It is said to strengthen and enhance production of red blood cells. 

So it might be bitter to eat and swallow, but there's nothing bitter in looking forward to enjoying life for a long time yet. 


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Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Casa San Pablo - Dinner


Dinner at Casa San Pablo was a grand affair, in the context of a grand meal at home. During fiestas, or perhaps an important guest, or a revered relative, has come to visit.

Providing warmth to the rather chill evening – it rained hard in the afternoon dissipating to a shower – was what I know to be bulalo, but which I also know as a proper Tagalog nilagang baka. Bone-in beef shank boiled til tender with slices of onion and whole peppercorns, the soup sweetened with corn on the cob and cabbage.

Then there was a platter of pako salad, which is indelibly associated with Laguna. The fresh fern  fronds were accompanied by slices of itlog an maalat or salted duck eggs, kesong puti (Laguna fresh white cheese), and chopped onions. The ferns, bland by themselves, were the blank canvas for the intense flavors of their platter-mates, as well as the various pickles and accompaniments arrayed on a side table.
burong saba, inihaw na kamatis sa toyo
burong bawang, burong mustasa, atsara

The chicken curry was mild, but the pork dish, sort of a dry humba, played on salty and sweet, with the latter more prominent due to the smattering of fried cubes of saba.

Dessert was delicate rounds of a milky flan, which paled in texture and lusciousness compared to the ube halaya. The kids were discontented, and wanted cake, so we had to drive downtown to a local cake shop that came with high recommendations by Casa San Pablo’s owners. And that will be covered in the coming posts. 

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Monday, December 17, 2012

Kamias-Lasuna Salad


I'm sure just about everybody's already suffering umay and sawa from eating by this time. I most certainly am, and I still have several parties for the year, with several more postponed to next year due to the surfeit of eating. Diets be damned.

For the last four weeks pias (kamias, kalamia-as) have been in heaping palangganas (plastic basins) at the public market, sold alongside fresh fish that I get cravings for sinigang. Those who have witnessed a pias tree bearing fruit would know how overly generous it could be - green globules parallel to the ground, propped up by all the other globules underneath.

So we've been sun-drying them to concentrate the flavor and temper the sourness. It seems the sun isn't aware it's already December down here by the equator, so it just takes a few days. 

And in the mornings we take my fresh stash and slice some of the still hard ones, thinly with a sharp knife. Topped with lasuna, also shaved thinly, which has unexpectedly appeared, and a little home-made agamang (bagoong alamang), it's a refreshing counterpoint to some fried tinapa or longganiza at breakfast.

The tartness is bracing, the peppery bite of the shallots add zing, and the salty meatiness of the fermented krill   brings the flavors together. This salad is a serious contender to our standard morning side kamatis-agamang

Honestly, though, this salad doesn't just jolt us awake at the start of the day. It startles our collective appetite and whips it into motion. Paired with breakfast deli staples that are on the salty side, it dooms us to platefuls of steaming hot rice.

But for lunch a sour-sweet shake would be in order. And I'd be ready for another party.


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Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Casa San Pablo - Breakfast

There’s something about Sunday mornings that just begs one to laze around, take it easy, stretch out each activity as if to make it last the day. It’s the last day of the weekend, after all, and the day after it’s back to the reality of tolling for your bread. So you savor each moment, loathe to hurry, wishing to draw out every second and every minute.  
Casa San Pablo is the perfect place to spend a Sunday morning. You wake up to a silent, expansive yet cosseted green space heavy with dew, hammocks below sheltering pine trees a silent invitation to lie down again and just be. Secluded corners are waiting to be claimed. Multi-level grounds encouraging slow walks.


After the unhurried pace, when the sun is high, breakfast beckons. The spread tempts of a leisurely lingering meal, enciting a rambling conversation going nowhere in particular. Perhaps start with a hot cup of native tsokolate, topped with a sprinkling of toasted pinipig There was also a thermos of brewed coffee. The thick pan de sal wanted to be torn to bits and dunked in the bright-colored mugs of hot drinks.

But I sliced the pan de sal, and they became the perfect vessels for the excellent palaman arrayed on the table – kalamay-hati (coco jam), mango jam, kalamansi jam, guava jelly – suitably thick but not overly sweet.  
When appetites are sufficiently whetted, there are platters of breakfast staples on the main dining table. 
Long thin rolls of San Pablo longganisa, garlicky, slightly sweet, and hamonado (smoked).
Butterflied fish that were faultlessly fried, and tasted almost unsalted. Crunchy and flavorful, it provided a counterpoint in texture and taste to the longganisa and the kamatis-itlog-maalat-pulang sibuyas (chopped tomatoes, salted duck eggs, red onions) salad. 
Large picture windows surrounding our assigned dining area provide a picturesque backdrop of the lush environment outside, and it felt like breakfast in the garden. Our focus was on the rambutan trees, whose laden branches must have fallen from the heavy rains the day before, and are now being divested of fruit. About time they were harvested, anyway.

They were so red their sweetness was so obvious. And they were bigger than the fruits being sold every kilometer or so along the highways leading to Quezon. Succulence in the flesh, with small pits that willingly let go of their juicy abundance.


We were very much unwilling to leave Casa San Pablo, ourselves, but friends were waiting in Lucena City, and the bounty of that area is another dimension waiting to be experienced. We were three vehicles in all, and we left with at least  8 kilos of rambutan per vehicle in an attempt to bring a part of an unforgettable weekend experience with us.


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Wednesday, June 05, 2013

Inggisan Kamatis

We have vegetables most meals. But for breakfast it kind of doesn't fit, like it's too serious so early in the day. Though I know it doesn't have to be, and it's just psychological. 

But we do have fresh fruit, first thing in the morning, so our empty stomachs get to absorb most of the beneficial natural vitamins. And because tomatoes are supposedly fruits, they usually accompany  rice breakfasts. The sour-sweet juiciness greatly complements smoked and other deli meats, and pairs perfectly with fried marinated fish, or smoked or salted and dried,  that are normal Filipino breakfast fare. 

Tomatoes pair even better with vinegar stews adobo and paksiw. Their mild sweetness plays with the intense sourness (plus saltiness in case of the adobo) of the dishes, and provide a layer of flavor that teases the palate. 

We usually just slice fresh tomatoes and mix them with bagoong alamang, or salt if that's not available, in a salad. If there's salted duck eggs that's sliced and mixed in, too, but in place of the bagoong or salt. But they say that unlike other fruits, tomatoes are much more beneficial cooked than fresh. And one simple step takes the tomatoes to another level, at the same time maximizing their potential. 

There's nothing simpler than sauteing tomatoes. It's the first thing I learned how to cook. It's just peeling garlic and crushing them to release flavor, then putting them in hot oil to stir fry. Then slice onions and mix them in. I slice the tomatoes and separate the seeds, but other people like the seeds, so it's optional. The tomatoes are stir-fried along with the garlic and onions, then seasoned with salt and pepper. Cooking time depends on how you like the tomatoes - whole, wilted, melting or disintegrated - taking from a minute to ten. 

This is already good to eat, but to make the dish richer beaten eggs are added in and incorporated. Now this can go two ways. Either just an egg or two is mixed in, just to enrich, the tomatoes retaining dominance in taste and visuals. Or add four or more to make an omelet. For the latter the sauteed tomatoes is mixed into  beaten eggs before it is poured in a frying pan and allowed to set, or stirred around to get large soft curds. 

Adding other ingredients to this egg-tomato dish can take it along many different directions. Herbs, perhaps, or leeks, or green leafy vegetables like pechay or cabbage. Maybe even sardines. For us, though, in Pangasinan, we add a thumb of ginger peeled and sliced thinly, which goes into the frying pan before the garlic. It brings a  bit of heat, and spice, and a sort of comforting angle to the dish. For you see, it evokes home-cooking, that which was made by lolas and mamas and yayas who evoke the nurturing zone of childhood.

So I never forget to buy tomatoes during my weekly market jaunts all through out the year, that I have a line graph of its price per kilo year-round here in my head. It's at rock-bottom now, so I've been buying more than we need for a week, which we saute and freeze for the time when the price escalates, which is when the typhoons hit. 



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